Cotton Mills – Drypigment.net

Travels of A Scenic Artist and Scholar: New Vaucluse Mills and the Tabor Opera House, Leadville, Colorado

The Tabor Opera House was purchased by the Leadville Elks in 1901 and renovated in 1902. Renamed the Elks Opera House, new scenery was purchased for the enlarged stage. Old shutters, wings, borders and roll drops were stored in the attic.

While examining the scenery in the attic this fall, I documented three textile mill stamps. In past posts, I explored the history of Stark Mills (https://drypigment.net2020/11/07/travels-of-a-scenic-artist-and-scholar-stark-mills-and-drillings-for-scenery-at-the-tabor-opera-house/) and the history of Boott Mills (https://drypigment.net2020/11/04/travels-of-a-scenic-artist-and-scholar-boott-mills-standard-sheeting-for-stage-scenery-at-the-tabor-opera-house-in-leadville-colorado/). The third textile mill with fabric that made its way to the Tabor Opera House attic is the New Vaucluse Mills. Fabric manufactured at the New Vaucluse Mill in South Carolina was wrapped around a drop roller.

*New Vaucluse Mill Stamp on a drop roller at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

*New Vaucluse Mill fabric on a drop roller at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

This small piece of cotton fabric connectsthe history of a Colorado opera house with that of the southern textile industry.

In Dec. 1833, the General Assembly of South Carolina granted Shultz Breithaupt and his associates a charter for the Vaucluse Manufacturing Company. This was only the second charter of incorporation granted to a textile factory in South Carolina. By 1834 operations commenced, and by 1836, the new mill was producing from $250 to $300 worth of goods daily. That is today’s equivalent of $7,000-$8400 worth of goods daily, or 2.5-3 million annually.

For me, it is difficult to explore the history of nineteenth-century textile mills without contemplating the poor working conditions and reliance upon child labor. Nineteenth-century textile mills are one example of an American industry that did not always prioritize the safety of their workers over profits. Without local, regional and national oversight, many factories considered their employees dispensable, and treated them as such. If ever there was a reason to support American labor unions, we just need to look at history of mill workers; so many were lives were sacrificed for the profits of a few.

The drop roller with the New Vaucluse Mill stamp at the Tabor Opera House likely dates from 1879 to 1882, indicating that this may be some of the earliest scenery delivered to the Tabor Opera House. This lone roller connects a small western opera house to the South Carolina textile industry. Vaucluse was located near the small towns of Graniteville and Aitken in South Carolina. Now, there are many histories written about the Graniteville Manufacturing Co. and Vaucluse Mills as well as the rise of capitalism in the south. Some historians describe the works of visionaries; rags to riches tales of white men developing manufacturing industries. Others explain that their initial success was a direct result of slave labor; they were only paying for materials in the manufacturing process. This initial jumpstart gave them an immediate advantage over their northern counterparts.

As I read the history, I was reminded of one line from the musical “Hamilton.” It is from an I am exchange between Hamilton and Jefferson in Cabinet Battle #1 . Hamilton says:

A civics lesson from a slaver. Hey neighbor
Your debts are paid cuz you don’t pay for labor

All stories that revolve around the Vaucluse Mills include William Gregg (1800-1867), founder of the Graniteville Manufacturing Company and investor in Vaucluse Mills in the Edgefield District. Vaucluse was a mill town, one of many in the area. The first large-scale cotton mill was constructed in nearby Graniteville by Gregg in 1845, immediately after his return from touring the northern textile mills the year before. Many consider Gregg to be the father of the textile industry in the South. After he returned for his 1844 trip, Gregg wrote a series of articles about his visit, calling upon southern investors in to support southern industrialization. In short, Gregg believed that southern mills could effectively compete with their northern counterparts, citing labor was cheaper in the south. Well, in some cases it was slave labor, so free. The Graniteville Manufacturing Co. was organized in 1855, situated on Horse Creek in the town of Graniteville (Keowee Courier, Pickens, SC, 26 June 1879, page 2). In 1869, a larger mill was proposed on the Vaucluse site. An article about the Vaucluse Manufacturing company asked, “It becomes the citizens of the State, therefore, to take hold upon this enterprise. Into what can our planters better put their surplus funds, the safe investment of which is to so many of them so great a puzzle? In what way can any citizen do more for the general interest of the State?” (The Charleston Daily News, 26 March 1869, page 1). Graniteville mills and Vaucluse mill later became part of the Graniteville Manufacturing Co. Graniteville was the home office and central location to a collection of textile plants in South Carolina and Georgia.

The new Vaucluse mills complex continued to grow and integrate new technology for an ever-increasing output of products. Even after a Vaucluse Mill waterpower burned in 1874, it was soon replaced with a new mill of granite and brick. By 1877, Vaucluse Mill completed the completed the construction of a 342-foor long dam (Keowee Courier, 26 June 1879, page 2). In 1880, Vaucluse Mill even generated 197,000 yards of cloth over a two-week period (Austin American-Statesman, 3 Oct 1880, page 2). By 1884, Vaucluse mill processed 70,738 pounds of cotton that produced 1,423,926 pounds of cloth, or 5,264,500 yards, consuming 1,675,211 pounds of cloth, or about 3,723 bales (Montgomery Adviser, 29 April 1884, page 2).

Buildings from the Vaucluse mills are now part of the Vaucluse historic district, but little is left of textile legacy in terms of products. No handy dishtowels in a museum gift shop as at Boott Mills in Lowell, Massachusetts.

The Vaucluse Historic District was listed in the National Register of Historic Places on May 7, 1996, and includes an 1832 granite wheel house and foundation, the 1877 mill complex (main mill, tower, connecting building, and picker house), 83 former company dwellings the 1952 northside expansion, and the 1955 warehouse. The New Vaucluse mill complex from 1877 was designed by architect Amos D. Lockwood. His design was one of the earliest examples of a New England prototype mill to be built in South Carolina. Lockwood’s later firm, Lockwood, Greene & Co. later designed approximately fifty of South Carolina’s textile manufacturing facilities.

Much of the New Vaucluse Mill history is included in “Planting a Capitalist South: Masters, Merchants, and Manufacturers in the Southern Interior, 1790–1860” by Tom Downey (Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2005).

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar. Stark Mills and Drillings for Scenery at the Tabor Opera House

From September 21 to 27, 2020, I led a group of volunteers to document scenery in the attic of the Tabor Opera House, Leadville, Colorado. Of the many wings, shutters and set pieces uncovered, one particular border curtain caught my eye. On the back of the piece was a mill stamp that read, “Stark Mills Improved Standard Drillings A.” To fully appreciate this artifact, one must understand the significance of Stark Mills and use of drillings for nineteenth-century scenery.

*Stark Mills textile stamp on the back of a border curtain at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

Stark Mills was located in Manchester, New Hampshire, just thirty-six miles away from Boott Mills in Lowell, Massachusetts. Both mills were situated along the Merrimack River, supported by power canals. Both mills produced textiles used by scenic artists for scenery at the Tabor Opera House.

Stark Mills produced some of the heaviest cotton fabrics shipped from mills in Manchester, New Hampshire, during the nineteenth century. Their products included sheetings, drillings, denim, duck and much more, each shipped to thousands of distant dry goods stores. Stark Mills products were even sold in Hawaii by 1870. Newspaper advertisements for Honolulu listed bales of Stark Mills A Sheeting, B Sheeting and A Drilling for sale.

When the Tabor Opera house opened in 1879, Stark Mills textiles were readily available from many western merchants. Drillings were also a familiar product known to many theatre artists and worked well for painted scenes. Keep in mind that before the railroad arrived in Leadville, products were shipped by stage over the mountains, including a variety of necessary textiles for everyday life. Stark Mills Improved Standard Drillings were a necessary fabric for the mining community, primarily used in dress and vest linings. The shipping of the product by stage to Leadville signaled a continued commercial relationship with east coast industry. The Tabor Opera House opened its doors before the railroad arrived in town.

Several scenic pieces at the Tabor Opera House were produced using Stark Mills, listing the product as grade “A” drillings. A “40” on the stamp indicated the number of yards in a bolt. The popular plain weave cotton fabric was a sturdy, inexpensive, and paintable fabric. In 1890, “best drillings” were advertised at a price of eight cents per yard in Leadville, today’s equivalent of $2.29/yard. (Herald Democrat, 22 Jan 1890). Scenic artists working on site in remote western towns, such as Leadville, relied on local materials. Unlike their metropolitan counterparts, scenic artists working in Leadville did not have the luxury of access to an array of variety of goods, wit varying quality and price points.

*Detail of the Stark Mills standard drillings* *used for a border curtain at the Tabor Opera House.*

Drillings are fabric with a twill weave, characterized by diagonal lines made from the filling threads. Also referred to as “drill,” this fabric was marketed as a stout twilled fabric, and traditionally used in summer-weight clothing, such as trousers. Drill was especially popular for uniforms and other military goods during the nineteenth century, as well as being used as lining for dresses and vest. Although the date of manufacture for the border curtain fabric remains unknown, the fabric was likely produced between 1879 and 1887.

*Stark Mills products for sale in Hawaii, from the “The Pacific Commercial Adviser,” Honolulu, 26 Feb 1870, page 4*

Stark Mills was a massive complex in Manchester, New Hampshire. By 1881, Stark Mills manufactured 17,000,000 yards of cotton goods that were shipped across the country (Vermont Farmer, 21 Oct 1881, page 2). In 1882 Stark Mills produced 8,567,000 pounds of product; the goods including sheetings, drillings, duck and bags (The Boston Globe, 18 Oct 1881, page 6). This was an increase over the previous year by 230,000 pounds, indicating an increased supply to meet increased demand.

Stark Manufacturing Co. was an affiliate of the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company. In 1831 the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. was incorporated along the banks of the Merrimack River after engineers determined that the east bank of the Merrimack River was deemed best for the establishment of mills and tiered canals. In short, the company planned an extensive mill town, purchasing much of the land on the east bank of the Merrimack in 1835. Early in 1838, several individual with interests in the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. submitted a petition to the legislature for a charter of incorporation under the name of the Stark Manufacturing Company. The name Stark was selected in honor of John Stark. Stark was a Maj. Gen. in the Continental Army during the American Revolution, widely known as the “Hero of Bennington” for his exemplary service at the Battle of Bennington in 1777. Immediately upon the organization, the Stark Manufacturing Company entered into an agreement with the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. and began building the first Stark Mill.

The Stark Manufacturing Company purchased fourteen acres of land from the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, and secured an agreement for water usage from the Amoskeag Canal. Stark Mill opened in 1839, with the new building measuring 50’-0 wide by 150’-0” long. Six tenement buildings provided nearby lodging for mill workers. Raw cotton entered the building by a three-story picker house at the south end of the building. Picker machines both cleaned and processed the cotton fibers for further processing prior to using in looms.

Soon a second mill was erected nearby the original structure, exactly the same size as the first. By 1844, a third mill was added, placed between the two buildings. The three mills formed a large complex that became known as Stark Mill No. 1. This six-story structure was 526 feet long and contained 20,000 spindles and 660 looms. In 1844, the Stark Manufacturing Co. processed three million pounds of raw cotton and employed 540 people. Stark Mill No. 2 was built in 1846. This factory had 19,564 spindles with 560 looms.

In 1850 fire broke out in Stark No. 1, the refitting of the mill included Cyrus Baldwin’s invention to manufacture seamless bags. Of the 660 new looms, 260 were now dedicated to the production of bags; the 260 Baldwin produced 2,000,000 bags each year. The seamless grain bags were identifiable by the word “Stark” over a semi-circular arch, with the letter A below. This was an extremely popular product, quickly imitated by competitors. In 1871, a Philadelphia firm was accused of making and selling similar goods with the word “Star” over a semi-circular arch and the letter A below. The court eventually granted an injunction to restrain the use of the imitative mark (Buffalo Weekly Courier, 3 May 1871, page 6).

By 1875, the number of mills associated with the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. had increased to nine. The mills were outfitted with 125,000 spindles and 3,500 looms. 2700 individuals were employed, with 1,800 of that number women. The mills were powered by 14 water wheels, transforming 225,000 pounds of cotton into 600,000 yards of textiles each week. From 1874 to 1875 Stark Mills manufactured 12,579,734 yards of cotton and linen goods, as well as 1,738,547 lbs. of bags (“Boston Daily Globe,” 8 Oct. 1875, page 2). In 1875 the Stark Mills payroll was a little over $20,000 a week, or about $1,250,000 a year.). By this time, half of all goods manufactured by the mills were colored goods, consisting of tickings, denims, fancy shirtings, sheetings, and bags. The “white” goods remained drillings, flannels, sheetings and bags.

From 1879-1890 the Tabor Opera House purchased new scenery at least three times: 1879, 1888 and 1890. New scenery was added to existing collections, as well as refurbishing and repainting scenes. The fabric for many of these scenes are stamped with either Stark Mills of Boot Mills.

Over time, some of the Tabor Opera House border curtains were repainted to accompany new productions, yet the mill stamps remained visible. As subsequent collections of scenery were purchased and painted for the Tabor Opera House stage, standard sheetings were selected in lieu of older drillings. This preference was also reflected in products marketed by scenic studios. By the late 1880s, the preferred fabric for American scenic artists became cotton sheeting. The smooth finish of the fabric especially helped with scenic illusions, such as transparencies. At this time thicker products, such as Russian linen, were reserved for painted front curtains (drop-curtains), grand teasers and grand tormentors.

*Border curtain constructed with Stark Mills drillings in the attic of the Tabor Opera House, 2018.*

*Border curtain constructed with Stark Mills drillings for the Tabor Opera House.*

Painted detail. *Border curtain constructed with Stark Mills drillings for the Tabor Opera House.*

*Detail of border curtain showing color from an overpainted composition.*

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Boott Mills Standard Sheeting for Stage Scenery at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.

On June 19, 2018, I first examined the historic scenery collection in the Tabor Opera House attic. It was rumored to be the original installation from 1879, and I wanted to find something that supported this speculation. I was traveling with my family from Minneapolis, Minnesota, to Santa Fe, New Mexico. In Santa Fe, I was scheduled to participate in a book signing event for the “Santa Fe Scottish Rite Temple: Freemasonry, Architecture and Theatre,” published by the Museum of New Mexico that spring. Here is a link to the book: https://www.amazon.com/Santa-Scottish-Rite-Temple-Architecture/dp/0890136335/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=waszut-barrett&qid=1604502787&sr=8-1_. The book signing was scheduled for June 24 at the Santa Fe Scottish Rite, so we only had a few days to linger on trip there.

While traveling across the country, I documented historic scenery at several venues, including the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado. We pulled into Leadville on June 18, having scheduled a quick stop at the Tabor Opera House, before heading to Twin Lakes and Independence Pass. The next day was my 49^th birthday, and I decided to treat myself to a morning in the attic at the Tabor Opera House. Although this greatly excited me, I did not ask my husband and son to join me, as their excitement for historic theatres was rapidly waning. In the attic, I carefully shifted flats piled against a far wall, encountering a surprise as each layer was unveiled. My husband and son were scheduled to pick me up at noon, so I had only a few hours to get a sense of what was hidden below piles of dust and debris.

In addition to marveling at the painted compositions, I examined the back of many pieces for clues. Often, there is more information on the back than the front. I look at fabric weave, construction techniques, mill stamps, studio stencils and basic graffiti. A “Boott Mills” stamp appeared several times on the backs of both borders and wings.

*Boott Mills Standard Sheetings stamp on the back of scenery at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado, ca. 1879-1880.*

One particular piece caught my eye – a stage right wing. Additional information on the Boott Mill stamp included “Standard Sheetings. FF. 40 yds.”

*Back of a grand tormentor, once stored in the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

*The same grand tormentor lowered from the Tabor Opera House attic to the stage floor.*

The painted composition and construction indicate that the wing functioned as a grand tormentor in the 1880s. It was part of a pair; the stage left wing now missing. The wing was constructed to roll, unlike other wings in the attic. Also, the corresponding shutters for the wings that did not roll, commercial flat sheaves dating from 1888. The rolling hardware on the wing was unique, using a sash pulley to roll the unit. Unlike flat sheaves, sash pulleys were readily available from local suppliers for standard building construction. Keep in mind that when the Tabor opera house was built, all of the materials where shipped in by stagecoach; the railway had yet to reach Leadville. On January 22, 1880, the Denver and Rio Grande was the first railroad to reach Leadville, with the Tabor Opera House officially opening in November 1879.

*One of two sash pulleys at the bottom of a grand tormentor (wing). Tabor Opera House, Leadville, Colorado.*

Furthermore, the quality of the fabric, the frame construction, and hardware of the extant wing, all indicate that this piece was part of the original collection, prior to the arrival of the railroad in Leadville. Regardless of the exact manufacture date, the wing pre-dates most other attic scenery that was painted and signed by T. Frank Cox in January 1888.

There is a second factor to consider about the orphaned wing. The painted composition dates from later than its original construction. The painting matches a complete interior setting that was also stored in the attic, with some flats showing signs of repainting. Repainted scenery was commonplace throughout the nineteenth-century. Wings, shutters and borders were “washed down,” effectively removing the water-based paint from an existing flat before being repainted with a new scene. Scenic Studios also advertised shipping painted scenes for existing frames. This saved the travel and expense of an artist working on site at a theater, as well as the expense of new frame construction. Repainting existing scenes avoided the exorbitant costs associated with purchasing an entirely new stock scenery collection.

*The grand tormentor and matching interior set pieces at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

*Four flats on the stage floor at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado. These match the grand tormentor with the Boott Mills stamp.*

*Painted detail on grand tormentor (wing) at the Tabor Opera House in Leadville, Colorado.*

As far as the history of Boott Mills…

Boott Mills was established in Lowell, Massachusetts, along the Merrimack River. Located twenty-five miles northwest of Boston, Boott Mills initially operated with hydropower, a waterwheel powering the line shaft that ran the length of the factory floor. Leather belts that operated each loom were attached to the line shaft. Steam engines soon replaced the original water turbines, and mill operations later transitioned to electricity.

The Lowell area boasted an extensive group of cotton mills, built alongside power canals constructed during the early nineteenth century. Boott Mills was situated near the Merrimack Canal, the first of many power canals in Lowell. By the mid-nineteenth century there were approximately 150 mills operating in Lowell, an astounding number that specialized in a variety of products.

Prior to the Industrial Revolution, most American mills were designed to produce a turnkey product, specializing in only one aspect of textile manufacturing. Raw Cotton had to be cleaned, spun, carded and wove into cloth. Once the cloth was completed, the material was shipped to other companies that manufactured specific products. Later, cotton bales arrived at a mill and were turned into cloth in the same location, going through the process of cleaning, spinning, carding, rolling and weaving on site. Technological advancements in the weaving industry resulted in the power loom. The power loom was responsible for the mass production of textiles.

In America, Paul Moody developed the first successful power loom by 1816, working for Francis Cabot Lowell at Waltham mills. Moody later ran the Merrimack Manufacturing Co. in Lowell. Kirk Boott (1790-1837), namesake of Boott Mills, was the first agent and treasurer for the Merrimack Manufacturing Company. Boott later built his first mill, initially constructing four buildings in 1835. Over the decades, Boott Mills expanded into a massive complex, shifting from hydropower, to steam, and finally electricity for operations. Like other companies, Boott Mills constantly incorporated new technology to increase overall output.

Ira Draper improved Moody’s design, allowing a mill worker to operate two machines simultaneously. By the mid-nineteenth century, improvements continued and now one mill worker would operate a dozen of machines, greatly increasing the amount of product produced at a mill. As with most factories, profits increased substantially as worker wages stagnated. In short, mill workers assumed more responsibilities for the same wage, allowing overall production costs to decrease while profits dramatically increased.

As with other industries, the textile industry transitioned from an economic system of independent craftsmen to a factory system of mass-produced goods where the role of craftsman was often reduced to that of common laborer. This shift in the textile industry was accelerated during the post-Civil War era when much of the textile industry moved south. New mills were established in areas where labor was much cheaper and cotton more accessible. This meant that southern millworks collected greater profits, investing additional funds in newer technology. Many northern mills did not have the equivalent returns to equip their factories with comparable machinery. By the 1920s, northern mills, including those in Lowell, began to close as they were unable to compete with their southern counterparts.

Boott Mills ceased their operations in 1958, and by the 1960s unemployment in Lowell was among the highest in the country. Throughout the economic downturn, many of the Boott Mill buildings remained standing a decade after the factory closed. By the 1970s Boott Mill buildings became part of the Lowell National Historical Park. For more information about the Boott Mills Museum, visit: https://npplan.com/parks-by-state/massachusetts-national-parks/lowell-national-historical-park-park-at-a-glance/lowell-national-historical-park-museums-and-exhibits/lowell-national-historical-park-boott-cotton-mills-museum/

The Boott Mills Museum features a Weave Room and several informational exhibits. The Weave Room is a scaled-down reproduction of a mill factory floor, complete with working looms. The machinery on display are primarily Draper machines, dating from the early twentieth century. The Weave Room still manufactures cloth for dish towels that are sold in the gift shop. Here is a lovely video of the looms working: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/From_line_shaft_to_power_looms.ogv

Other Boott Mill buildings were converted into shops, apartments, condos and offices.

I have already contacted the Boott Mills Museum to confirm the mill stamp usage dates on the Tabor Opera House wing, and am currently awaiting a response. This post at www.drypigment.net will be updated once I have any additional information.

To be continued…