Historic Stage Scenery Restoration 101: Planning the Project.

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

On September 9, 2020, I published an article entitled “Maintaining and Restoring Historic Drops: How to Plan and What Not To Do.” This article was the result of several requests to share my restoration techniques with various scenic art groups.

It is time to share a revised version of the post as part of a my new series – Historic Stage Scenery Restoration 101. These articles will examine a variety of preservation methods for historic scenery. It will also highlight inappropriate materials and techniques; processes that can ultimately destroy culturally significant stage artifacts.

I am frequently asked about historic scenery maintenance and restoration techniques, with many suggesting I publish some form of manual. Unfortunately, there is no standard way to restore all historic backdrops, cut drops, leg drops, roll drops, borders, wings or shutters. Each one is different, demanding a custom approach based upon a unique set of criteria identified during the preliminary research phase.

Artistic provenance is key in determining a preservation strategy.

Extensive research must be completed prior to proposing a plan for the handling, cleaning, and repair of any large-scale artwork for the stage. Certain questions must be answered in advance: who manufactured the scenery, when was the scenery manufactured, and where was the scenery manufactured? It is also important to identify the original client and use. The answers to these questions are critical in determining the preservation strategy for individual drops or entire collections. These answers also prompt a subsequent series of questions regarding appropriate materials, techniques, processes, timelines, future display and overall use. Is this historic scene intended for display in a theater, or will it simply hang on a wall? How often will the scenery be used, if at all?  The answers to these basic questions help formulate a plan.

In addition to understanding an artifact’s artistic provenance, all stakeholders must understand that certain materials and techniques will destroy historic stage scenery. I will explain what not to do, based on examples of poor repairs that I have encountered in the past.  There are specific materials and techniques that should never be used on historic scenery or fragile fabrics, as they cause irreparable harm and can destroy a significant piece of theatre history.

It is very important to understand that contemporary scene painting is a dramatic departure from historic scene painting, specifically in terms of fabrics, painting products and artistic techniques. So much has changed over the past century. Historic scenic art is foreign ground for many contemporary scene painters, especially as certain types of training and materials have vanished from most college curricula and theatre apprenticeships. Just because one is a scenic artist does not make them qualified to restore historic paintings; the two are worlds apart. In other words, an ability to paint historic scenes doesn’t mean you should repair historic stage scenery. Similarly, a fine art conservator is not necessarily qualified to assess and propose the preservation or acceptable display of historic stage scenery. It is a fine line to walk, and there is not always a straight path from point A to point B.

The perception of historic scenery must always consider its original purpose. Everything becomes complicated when historic stage settings are solely perceived as fine artworks. For many art historians and conservators, stage scenery is simply considered a large-scale painting. Yet it is radically different from artworks that hang on a gallery wall. A stationary painting in a museum is viewed under fixed lighting. Such is not the case with historic scenery for the stage; it is part of a whole. Few individuals outside of the theatre industry understand the true metamorphic quality of scenic art, specifically how it partners with stage lighting systems. Scenic art, regardless its age, remains part of an interactive art form intended to withstand the handling of many. Scenic shifts are necessary in many productions. This means that standard conservation techniques do not always work for historic stage scenery, as they cannot withhold the demands of a scene change.

When stage scenery is identified as fine art, many methods selected for repair and preservation are based on traditional methods employed in art conservation, not those familiar with theatre history or stage technology. Therefore, the conservation of each drop follows strict conservation guidelines without considering the function. Accepted conservation practices are not always appropriate for the stage. Many art conservation materials are solvent based, posing fire threats as accelerants.

The first step in any scenery restoration project starts with research. You need to establish the artistic provenance of a stage artifact or scenery collection, and here are the questions that you need to ask, and why you need to ask them

1. ESTABLISHING ARTISTIC PROVENANCE

WHO made it? Is it a backdrop painted on cotton sheeting by a student for a class play in the 1920s, or is it a drop curtain constructed of Russian linen and painted by an internationally recognized artist in the 1890s?  The manufacturer of a scenic piece matters, as it is integrally tied to the painting process and materials.

Many nineteenth-century and early-twentieth-century American scenic artists attended art institutes, at home and abroad. In many cases, fine art studies were completed in addition to a lengthy apprenticeship at a professional scenic studio before striking out on one’s own.  American scenic artists at this time were members of fine art organizations across the country, and much of their work continues to be treasured in the fine art world. For example, some scenic artists in the east belonged to the Salmagundi Club and/or Rochester Art Club.  In the midwestern states, scenic artists studied at the Chicago Institute of Art, joining unique groups, such as the Palette & Chisel Club. In the west, scenic artists belonged to a variety of fine art organizations established in the Pacific North West, California, New Mexico and elsewhere. Theatrical scenery created by scenic artists should not be considered any less significant than their smaller fine art pieces. Large scale works provided generations of artists with opportunities to explore color theory, painting techniques, compositional lay outs and lighting conditions.  Theatre scenery offered artists and opportunity to create a unique installation that was interactive. That being said, there were many amateur artists producing scenery; their work is easily identifiable, yet remains culturally significant too.

Regardless of skill level and/or final product, the terms “old backdrops,” “old backings for the stage,” and “old scenery” devalues stage art. Instead, refer to historic scenery as “large-scale artworks for the stage” painted by local, regional, national, or internationally recognized fine artists. Public perception is crucial when preserving theatrical heritage. Your terminology could save a piece of American theatre history, or world history.

            WHEN was the artifact manufactured? The year, decade, and/or century that the theatrical scene was produced helps identify the type of fabric, paint, and painting process.  Knowing the age of a scene helps identify various materials, especially the fabric and basic construction techniques. Fabric seams, whether vertical or horizontal, can also identify a particular era and studio. How the drop is suspended and operated also matters. Are there sandwich battens, rollers, jute webbing, or something else at the top and bottom of the scene? Is there a counterweight system with arbors or a pin rail with sandbags? Keep in mind that the overall suspension affects the deterioration of both the fabric and painted composition. Understanding the original materials and display are crucial in identifying and locating appropriate and compatible materials for any repair.

            WHERE was the artifact manufactured? Location can help identify a specific construction and painting process. Certain regions adopted unique approaches to scenic art, often based upon the influx of immigrants. Scenic art in the United States began as a large melting pot of languages, traditions and techniques, with two dominant approaches emerging between 1850 and 1900. At this time American scenic artists primarily worked with opaque washes, thin glazes, and later a combination of the two. These artistic influences are still recognizable today across the country. For more information, read my article, “American Scenic Art: The Immigrant Contribution,” in TheatreInitiative Berlin’s Die Vierte Wand #110. It is available for online at https://archive.org/details/itheam_d4w-010_202009. Here is the a link to the pdf: https://issuu.com/itheam/docs/itheam_d4w-010.

Throughout the twentieth century American scenic art continued to change, incorporating new products and methods over the years. As an industry, many American scenic artists shifted from painting on vertical frames to the continental method (painting on the floor). A backdrop painted in 1920 and another painted in 1940 may seem light years apart when examining construction, materials, and painting techniques. When planning scenic repairs or complete restorations, one must intimately understand the entire scope of painting methodologies, traditional materials and historical techniques, as well as contemporary products to avoid.

Restoration is for the long term. Unlike the ephemeral nature of contemporary scenery for a short-run show, certain materials and techniques to repair historic scenery should be avoided. Use common sense and think of the big picture; one beyond a quick repair. The results from this project should outlive you and almost always remain reversible. That being said, stage settings are not fine art, created for a stationary place on a gallery wall. Your ultimate goal is to not permanently alter the artifact, but preserve it for continued use. Contemporary methods to patch and repair modern drops are seldom an option for historic ones. Likewise, contemporary methods for fine art conservation are not always appropriate for the theatrical stage. Let’s start with inappropriate fabric repairs.

Below is a list of specific materials and techniques that should never be used on historic scenery.

Metal: Sheet metal is never an option to patch fabric. The weight and sharp edges pose a threat and the rivets puncture the fabric.

Metal repair on historic scenery used by the Quincy Scottish Rite.

Plaster: Plaster on fabric adds too much weight and the painted composition will stretch an irreparable amount.

Plaster repair on historic scenery used by the Grand Forks Scottish Rite.

Hot Melt Glue: This product embeds itself in the fibers and is irreversible, while adding unnecessary weight to the area. Hot melt glue should never be considered when repairing fragile fabrics or historic scenery. It is also an accelerant, posing a fire hazard.

Hot melt glue used to attach netting on historic scenery once used at the Fort Scott Scottish Rite.

Wood Glue: This product is too brittle to use on soft goods. It was also never intended for fabric; it’s for wood.

Wood glue repair on historic scenery, once used by the Richmond Scottish Rite.

Wood Putty: This product was never intended for use on fabric. Again, it is for wood and too rigid for repairs.

Masonite: The weight of any wood or composite material glued to the back of drop or flat causes stress and will irreparably stretch the surrounding area.

Masonite repair on historic scenery once used by the Wichita Scottish Rite.

Contact Cement: This is an irreversible and a solvent-based product that should not be used on historic scenery. It poses a fire hazard.

Contact cement used to attached wood stiffeners on historic scenery, once used by the Wichita Scottish Rite.

Flexible Foam: This product should not be glued to historic scenery at all.

Flexible foam repair on historic scenery used by the Cheyenne Scottish Rite.

BEVA 371: This conservation adhesive, sold as either a liquid or clear film, is extremely flammable. Although the product is recommended for the repair of fine art paintings, it should never be considered an option for stage scenery. This product is a fire accelerant and will be presented in detail at a later time.

BEVA 371 film is extremely flammable.

Plastic: Plastic should never pair with historic or fragile fabric for many reasons. In regard to plastic netting, the rigidity will harm the fabric. Look for all-natural cotton fabrics and nettings.

Plastic pipe pocket added to a historic scene used by the Louisville Scottish Rite.

There is another type of repair frequently suggested for historic scenery collections -replacing traditional sandwich battens with pipe pockets on the bottom and jute webbing on the top. What appears to be a reasonable solution introduces a weakness to the historic fabric and it will fail. Over time the stitching will act like a perforated page, eventually tearing off. This topic will also be discussed in detail at a later time.

Pipe pockets that replaced wood battens on historic scenery once used by the St. Louis Scottish Rite. Pipe pockets will ultimately fail.

It is extremely important to understand painted illusion for the historic stage, whether eighteenth-century, nineteenth-century or twentieth-century. The necessary skill set for successful scenery restoration is more than a combination of product knowledge and artistic experience. You must understand not only the traditional methods and materials, but also all of the historical processes and how each artifact was a product of a specific time period. In other words, it is a complex combination of historical research and innate talent. Painted illusion was used in a variety of venues, including theaters, opera houses, cinemas, music academies, city halls, schools, lodge rooms, armories, coliseums, and hippodromes. None of it was intended to be viewed up close, or on a museum wall under fixed lighting.  

Leg drop, cut drop and backdrop by Sosman & Landis Scene Painting Studio for the Scottish Rite Theatre in Santa Fe, New Mexico, 1912.

Many extant backdrops were produced as part of a set, a combination of backdrops, cut drop, and leg drops, or shutters, roll drops, wings and borders. Flat profile pieces were added for painted dimension in each case. Furthermore, painted grand teasers and tormentors were often permanently positioned within the proscenium opening to frame these painted settings.  The level of detail for each stage artifact also shifted as the scenes ranged from upstage to downstage positions.

Before you decide to formulate a maintenance plan or the restoration of any historic scenery collection, you must identify its placement with in theater history or popular entertainment; past materials, techniques, stage systems and venues inform any future repairs. Choosing the appropriate path is akin to the saying, “measure twice, cut once.”

In almost every case you have only one opportunity to do this right.

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 7.


Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

Sunday was my final day of work at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas. Over the course of seven days cleaned, repaired, consolidated loose paint, in painted, reinforced the seams, and replaced the entire top of the drop curtain with new fabric and batten. I also cleaned, consolidated loose painted, and repaired the matching grand border. Initially, this project was a pretty straightforward repair and touch-up job that was going to take five full days. However, it morphed into a “replace the entire top of the drop curtain and reinforce the seams.”  It tacked on an extra two days to the project, so was my last chance to finish everything last night before I left town today. Concordia is a nine-hour drive from my home in Minnesota.

Constructed a PVC roller for the bottom of the drop; this will solely to help reposition the piece for hanging.  An extremely thick layer of original primer and paint makes the composition extremely fragile and subject to cracking. All that was available was available for a quick roller was ten-foot sections of 4” PVC. We purchased four sections and five connectors. The last two connectors were added to the ends,  as it lifts the tubes up, and the fabric is able to adjust during the rolling, preventing wrinkles that sometimes occur.

Roller to help shift drop curing hanging.
Test run to make sure that roller would easily roll,

I positioned the assembled roller and did a dry run to make sure it would work. I wanted to verify that the paint didn’t crack when being wrapped around the diameter.  Rolling would occur Monday morning, as it has been extremely humid and I wanted to make sure that everything was really dry.

My next task was to attach the new top batten, made by local theatre volunteer Royce.  The battens were beautiful. As the drop is out of square, I referenced painted detail (bottom of the frame).  Just as they used to attach battens: I started out with nailing the back of the batten to the stage floor. This keeps the boards straight and in position as I attached fabric. I was also able to work out a few warps this way too. Then I attached the top of the fabric to the back batten, stapling every six inches; no, there were no tacks available.  I placed the front batten, sandwiching the fabric, with screws every foot, staggered. After everything was all set, I pried up the top batten and hammered over the nails. Voila! It was all set to go. The holes for suspension will be drilled when it is hung next Friday.

Attaching the back part of the batten.
Complete top sandwich batten.

I then returned to both in-painting and paint consolidation on the drop curtain. I worked on the drop until there were too many wet areas and then shifted to the grand border – about 2PM. After cleaning the piece, I patched and replaced a missing grommet at the top. Then I was able to focus my attention on both the green drapes for the drop curtain and grand border.

New top batten on drop curtain and matching grand border curtain.

I finished up at 7PM and headed back to my hotel for the Board Meeting via. Zoom. I created a power point to show details of the work that occurred over the week and answered questions.  The daily posts of this project were primarily for the Board of Directors to follow the progress, without stopping by during the day.

The Restored Napoleon Drop Curtain.
View of matching grand border curtain and new trop of drop curtain.

This morning after checking out of my hotel, I stop by the theater, roll the drop, load up my supplies and head home.  On my way home, I am stopping by the Blair Theatre in Bellville, Kansas to see their 1928 theater; Belleville is due north of Concordia.

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 6.

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

The three horizontal seams on the Napoleon Drop Curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre were separating; the thread completely failing, leaving gaping holes in the painted composition.  Each needed to be reinforced prior to hanging.

There are three seams on the Brown Grand Theatre Napoleon Drop Curtain.
Damaged area on the seam.

Although this is not a common occurrence, I have encountered it before on historic scenery at Scottish Rite theaters in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and Pasadena, California.

My past work reinforcing the top, bottom, and vertical seams on a backdrop at the Pasadena Scottish Rite.

In each case, the historic scenery was treated at least twice with flame retardants, possibly more. I have noticed that when some historic drops are re-treated with a secondary type of flame retardant, a chemical reaction occurs, causing the fabric to become stained and brittle.  Not only will the fabric deteriorate, but the paint will actually begin to flake off. Such is the case with the Napoleon Drop Curtain.

Brown staining on the back of the Napoleon Drop Curtain from flame retardant, c. 1978-1979.
Staining from multiple applications from flame retardants. Backdrop at the Pasadena Scottish Rite Theatre, c. 1902.
Damaged area on the seam. Backdrop at the Pasadena Scottish Rite Theatre, c. 1902.

We know for certain that the Napoleon Drop Curtain was treated with a flame retardant as the back clearly states “Flame Proofed”– twice. It is possible that an overly strong solution was applied to begin with, or that a secondary application was added over the years. Some fire marshals will demand that historic scenery be treated ever few years; they have no idea that this will destroy historic scenes.

Flame Proofed stencil on the Napoleon Drop Curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas.

In regard to the failing seams on the Napoleon Drop Curtain, the only remedy is to reinforce them, thus preventing the further separation of the fabric panels. I reinforced one seam earlier this week as a test sample. This was to make sure that I could manipulate the drop, as well as verifying the strength of the glue and width of the necessary patch. Today I realized that all of the seams were different widths.

The narrowest areas of a seam on the Napoleon Drop Curtain measure 1/4″.
The narrowest areas of a seam on the Napoleon Drop Curtain measure almost 1 1/2″.
Reinforced seam. Note how the width of the seam varies beneath reinforcement strip.

There are two factors accelerating the overall deterioration of the painted surface on the Napoleon Drop Curtain: flame retardant and primer. The primary issue is that the pigment has begun to separate from the primer. Saturating areas with an extremely diluted hide glue has helped some. However, I have been hesitant to treat any areas that were not dusting. My hesitation stems from the overall thickness of the combined primer and paint layers. I have actually never encountered such a thick layer of dry pigment paint on an entire drop before, and the added weight to the fabric is quite something.

Paint that has flaked off of the Napoleon Drop Curtain, revealing the white prime coat beneath.

The weight makes the drop difficult to shift. This drop is incredibly heavy, and it has nothing to do with the actual fabric. The weight comes from the paint. This excess weight is also taking a toll on the fragile fabric. Typically, I am able to easily move a drop once it is on the stage floor. Keep in mind that the drop is on plastic, so it should easily slide in any direction that I want it to go; I just have to get a little air under the drop and it should readily move. The easiest way I can describe this process is playing with a parachute in gym class. Giving a little flip to the edge gets air under the fabric, lifts it up, and helps move the entire drop. When it is airborne, you guide the direction of where the drop will land. Usually, I can do this by myself with very little effort, but not the Napoleon drop curtain.  It took two of use today to shift the drop.

After all three seams were reinforced on the Napoleon Drop Curtain.

The drop curtain was flipped face side down to reinforce the two remaining seams.  This was not an easy task. When we flipped the drop face up again, I just about burst into tears. There were entirely new areas of damage to the painted composition. This time the damage was in vertical lines running down one area of the drop. I could not believe my eyes.For the life of me, I could not figure out why there was vertical damage, and not horizontal.

An example of vertical damage that occurred when flipping the drop. Notice previously stabilized horizontal cracks.
Detail of damage that occurred after the Napoleon Drop Curtain was flipped painted side up.

There is that moment of stunned silence when I find myself at a loss. Then my brain goes into overtime, trying to process what has happened and what this means for the rest of the restoration and hanging process.  I thought of all of the obstacles that will occur when it is hung from the pipe and raised.  I needed to come up with a process to minimize any further damage during handling and hanging.

When I was patching four horizontal tears on the the backside of the drop, I noticed a vertical crease running though an entire fabric panel. At the time, I could not imagine was caused it. This flaw was original to the creation of the drop and not recent. It is now contributing to the paint separation, as are other areas with fabric flaws.

Flaw in the fabric on the back of the drop that I noticed while patching. This is one of the areas where a vertical line appeared when he drop was flipped over.
Damage to the fabric near the flaw.

Here is my plan for today:

When the paint restoration is completed it will need to dry overnight. Despite the air conditioning, an abundance of rain this week has not helped lower humidity levels or dry time. Early Monday morning, I will roll the drop onto a tube. Due to limited time and supplies, I am forced to use fabric-wrapped PVC tubes. This in itself is incredibly tricky, as old drops seldom easily roll without creases. The new top batten will already be attached and ready to go. The idea is that the drop will be slowly unrolled as it is lifted; a time-consuming process, as it will need many hands gently unrolling the drop. Once suspended, and the lines leveled (hemp system), the bottom batten will be added.  Attaching the bottom batten is pretty straight forward as the original lines are still visible. This is an original batten, by the way. The problem is that I will not be there for the actual hanging, scheduled next Friday.

How the drop responded during handling does not bode well for the overall longevity of this piece. 

I was recently asked how long the restored drop could last. Considering the deteriorated fabric and flaking, I explained that it could possibly last for another forty, or even fifty, years. However, at some point it will need a backing piece, one that covers and supports everything.  That is always a last resort and should be delayed as long as possible. The repairs to the back will cause a huge problem during the backing process.  The added thickness and weight will also become problematic. After seeing the vertical lines today, I don’t know if it will last more than a few decades now, especially when I start factoring in the humidity and heat in Kansas. Temperatures on the stage greatly vary.

I have been restoring historic scenery for quite some time. There are always wildcards that you can’t anticipate, but this one is really unique. For a drop painted in 1978, this should be in much better shape. There is just so much paint on the fabric. The seams will hold, but it is impossible to determine when the actual fabric will give way.  I say this, having handled drops three times the age of this one, with absolute confidence that they had several decades left in them. 

The thickness of a paint layer ultimately determines the lifetime of a backdrop.  The seaming matters too. Over time, I have noticed that vertical seams support the weight of bottom battens better than horizontal seams.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Concordia KNCK Radio Interview

On September 17, 2021, I was interviewed by Tony at KNCK Radio. He asked a variety of questions my current scenery restoration project at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas. Here is the link to the interview:

https://www.ncktoday.com/local/restoring-brown-grand-theatre-drop-curtain?fbclid=IwAR0bRDrO10dzvP4-HTC8bdCkbwS9hCcsToBrZQJAmX900Jmk8BceBKCsUkg#.YUSaa5N0-O0.facebook

Article with interview snippets. Concordia KNCK Radio.

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 5 – Random Patches

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

I have never encountered random patching on a historic backdrop. Patches are usually placed with a purpose; to repair some sort of damage to the fabric. The Napoleon drop curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas, has dozens of patches that range from approximately 1” x 1” to 3” x 8”. Only a handful of these patches cover damaged fabric. The placement of the rest remain a mystery.

The Napoleon Drop Curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas.
Random patches on the back of the Napoleon Drop Curtain.
Detail of patches on the Napoleon Drop Curtain.

Initially, I surmised that an enthusiastic individual came up with a solution to prevent light spill, covering thin areas with a patch, but now I am beginning to wonder. Today, I had to remove a few of those patches along a horizontal seam for reinforcement. There was nothing odd about the fabric beneath the patch.

Patch covering seam that needs a reinforcement strip.
Removing patch to place reinforcement strip – no damage below.

As I removed each patch, I was surprised to find no thinning fabric or apparent damage beneath.  This was very perplexing, and I started to take a closer look at the actual patches, the glue, and placement. Here is an example of another patch that I removed to prepare the area of a reinforcement strip.

Removing patch to place reinforcement strip.
Removing patch to place reinforcement strip – no damage below.
Removing patch to place reinforcement strip – no damage below.
Removing patch to place reinforcement strip – no damage below.
Removing patch to place reinforcement strip – no damage below. There is only glue residue along the bottom edge where the patch used to be.

It was apparent that the patches were placed while hanging, just based on glue drips alone.  Glue saturated the drop, and a variety of muslin patches were pressed into place. Not all patches were well cut or placed.  This haphazard process not only cracked the paint, but also left some staining on the front when the glue seeped through.

Here are my observations:

Multiple hands cut the patches.  Some had perfectly frayed edges, with all of the thread removed.  Others had wadded up bunches of thread in the corners. A few patches were even cut with pinking shears. I could not help but think of the individual who was was actively working to prevent frayed edges.

Multiple individuals slathered glue on the area to be patched. Some used an abundance of glue to the point that there is more glue on the surrounding fabric than under the patch. In some cases, so much glue was added that it dripped down like tree sap.

Glue drips that indicate the patching was done while the drop was hanging.

Quality greatly varies in placement. There are so many examples where one can say “not like this.”

Here are a few examples of what not to do when patching a drop:

1. The glue goes on the patch first, not the drop; it never goes on both. The reason for this is to prevent the glue from seeping through to the painted surface.

Too much glue used for each patch. This will affect the front (painted composition).
Notice the two squares that are darker. This is the staining from the patches pictured in the image above.

2. Do not place one patch over another; it’s pointless.

Overlapping patches are unnecessary.

3. Fray the edges of each patch, do not use pinking shears. This helps secure the edge of the patch.

Patch cut with pinking shears.

4. Smooth down the frayed edges of each patch. This helps secure the edge of the patch.

A patch where the edges were not smoothed down during application.
A patch where the edges were not smoothed down during application.

5. Smooth down each patch and don’t forget to remove wadded up threads attached to the patch. This helps secure the edge of the patch.

Wadded up threads from fraying edges of the patch were not removed, just glued in place.

Here is how to place a reinforcement patch on a seam:

Back to the project…Reinforcing a seam is a pain. Ideally, I use one long strip. However, this could not be the case with this project, as the original seams were very poorly done. Typically, I press open up the seam, and place prepared patch. Keep in mind that the patch is to prevent the seam from pulling apart; evenly supporting the weight. I reinforce seams when the thread begins to fail. A thread that fails is often the subject of flame retardant. In some areas, the seam on the Napoleon Drop Curtain would not lay flat, as it was uneven. That meant slowly making my way across the drop with 3’-0” lengths.

There were flaws in the original seam throughout. This causes great difficulty, as the reinforcement strip will not lie flat in that area.
Preparing the reinforcement patch.
Placing the reinforcement patches on plastic near the seam.
Hide glue is used to prepare the reinforcement patch. Glue and brush are placed on an industrial sized cooking sheet to prevent spilling, while flattening down the seam as the work progresses.
Reinforcement patch in an area where the seam was sewn correctly, and flat.

In addition to reinforcing one of the three horizontal seams, I finished securing the painted patch at the top. I still have a little paint touch up, but it seems good to go for the new top batten. There is just a little more painting to go.

The top patch was fully secured yesterday, with only a little detail painting to go.

The next two days are going to be pretty intense.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 4.

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

The wild card of my project at the Brown Grand Theatre is replacing the top of the drop curtain. It is a long process, that requires several steps and several days of dry time.

This portion of the project all stemmed from a horizontal rip that began along the top batten years ago.

What should have happened when this damage was initially identified, was a simple patch. In other words, remove the top batten, repair the fabric, replace the top batten, and rehang; problem solved. Instead, the old four-inch pine batten was replaced and a new six-inch oak batten, placed well below the original damage. The excess fabric was then wrapped around the backside of the batten. Even this repair may have been reversible, except the excess fabric was glued to the batten.

Original damage from batten (bottom rip) and damage from top batten (top rip).

Furthermore, the new top batten was not adequately prepared prior to use. Specifically, the sharp edges were not rounded, shaved, or sanded, so another rip began to appear in the same location as the previous one. On top of everything else, the glue used to secure the excess fabric was solvent-based, so it continued to off-gas after the new oak batten was attached. A chemical reaction occurred that rapidly deteriorated the fibers and irreparably damaged the top of the drop. This meant that the top twelve excess inches wrapped around the oak batten became damaged beyond repair; they could no longer support the weight of the drop. A simple reinforcement strip along the top was no longer an option.  The damaged excess fabric needed to be removed and the new top edge would be “sandwiched” between two reinforcement strips for adequate support.

Solvent-based glue was used when new batten was attached to the top.

Although this seems like a complex repair, the biggest problem is dry time.  Each step requires a good day for the glue to dry.  The drying goes slow because the patch needs to be compressed for a secure seal. This is not like the application of a normal patch to a puncture where you lightly press and walk away. I am using hide glue for this repair.

Hide glue granules before adding water and heating.
Hide glue used for repairs.

Three days ago, I glued the fabric extension to the backside, creating the back patch. While this dried, I prepared a painted front patch. By yesterday afternoon, I had managed to secure the painted front patch to the edge of the top, as I could not glue the entire patch at once due to size. Today, I will continue to attach the remainder of the front patch.

Back strip that is placed below damage. This combined with front patch will “sandwich” the old fabric.
Pre-painting top patch.
Completed top patch and secured back patch.
First step in gluing top patch, successfully encapsulating the original fabric.

In addition to the top patch, I will also need to reinforce all of the seams. This will be the most difficult repair in the entire project. It is time-consuming and tricky. There were four panels of fabric sewn together when the drop was constructed. The three horizontal seams have begun to fail, so this will require a reinforcement strip that runs the entire length of each seam.

While all of this is happening, I continue to work on consolidating loose paint and addressing areas with paint loss during dry time.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 3.

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett

I am currently in Concordia, Kansas, working on a scenery restoration project at the Brown Grand Theatre.

I returned to the theater yesterday morning to discover bat guano scattered across my clean drop. This was something that I did not anticipate and added a layer of annoyance. It would not be a one-time issue.

My recent encounter with bats makes me leery of them now.  I am sharing this story, as it taints my view of bats at the Brown Grand. My first “residential bat” experience occurred last month. It was when Jenny Knott visited my studio and helped document my restoration process.  Keep in mind that my studio is in the woods and for the past eighteen years bats have never been a problem. That being said, I had never been in close proximately to a bat in any house.  There is nothing quite like waking up to a bat that is repeatedly slamming itself into your screen window and then erratically flying around the room.

I did not run screaming from the room, but immediately panicked and hid under the covers. I would have stayed there until the morning if it hadn’t been ungodly hot at the time.  Jenny and I dealt with it, eventually directing the winged critter into another bedroom at 2am in the morning. I had always thought that I would handle a bat encounter better, with calm determination as I vanquished the unwelcome invader from my home. I was wrong. I think the majority of my fear stems from the unpredictability of their flight pattern. 

Anyway, after cleaning the droppings from the drop, I proceeded with my plan for the day. By the way, don’t worry, I am fully masked and gloved for this project anyway. I continued addressing the minimal cracks and paint loss throughout the painted composition.  As I scooted along on a piece a plastic, I explored the varieties of the painted surface and actual colors.  First of all, the drop had been touched up by a well-meaning individual at some point, but there was also a slight sheen to some of the original colors. I surmised that the reflective quality was result of two different things: the strength of original size (glue) in the paint and a later sealant added to some areas.

The main colors affected were all greens. Most of the painted green draperies will not reactivate with water. I have never encountered this problem with a strictly dry pigment and diluted hide glue (size water) mixture. This suggest that a premix paint was added to the dry pigment/size water medium. This means that an additional binder is added to the mix, and the paint will remain fixed.

Also, the malachite green (in the shadow areas of the drape) is the most reflective of the colors, but these dark colors are definitely composed of dry pigment and will reactivate. Some dark dry pigments are notorious for dusting, even upon initial application.  They require a stronger size water than normal. However, you have to make sure that there is not too much glue in the size water or it dries shiny. That is possibly what happened here.

The light greens are also a problem, as they do not reactivate with water at all; suggesting that premixed paint was added to the mixture upon application. I suspect that it was the same white paint used to prime the drop. The white primer does not reactivate when water is introduced either. This is problematic and contributes to the overall flaking and dusting of colors. The dry pigment paint mixture never fulled bonded to the primer.

This same pre-mixed white paint was likely added to lighten the green drapery colors.  I have explored the addition of premix to dry pigment mixtures in the past to analyze the final finish.  White dry pigment is a wild card. It can lighten a color an unbelievably amount when only a little bit is added to the mix. This makes mixing light colors extremely tricky and why I always try to lighten color with another color of a lighter value instead of white. A premixed white paint (casein, latex, acrylic) will lighten colors at a different rate and remain more predictable. It is never an option when restoring an historic drop.

In addition to the color issues, there is also a sealant problem. At some point, a sealant was applied a few areas; the brushwork is very identifiable. Overtime, the sealant darkened and remains fixed.  My guess is that the composition was dusting, and someone tried to consolidate the loose colors.

The dark shiny sealant in the cracks has dimension, like tree sap.

In addition to repairing minor paint damage, I also continued to work on the top of the drop. The entire top section was removed, damaged beyond repair from a solvent-based glue that was applied when the top sandwich batten was replaced.  Yesterday, I prepared, placed, sized and base-coated the top patch. This will be applied to the frontside of the patch placed yesterday.

Preparing the top patch. This is just a base coat on the green; colors will be finished after patch is attached.

Finally, the new top battens were delivered by a volunteer, and they look absolutely beautiful!

New wood battens for top of drop.
The Napoleon Drop Curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre in Concordia, Kansas.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 2.

Copyright © 2021 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett 

I am currently in Concordia, Kansas, working on a scenery restoration project. With a population of approximately 5,000, this town is located in central Kansas; an area known as the Smoky Hills region of the great plains.

My project is to repair and restore the second drop curtain delivered to the Brown Grand Theatre in 1979; a painted replica based on the original one delivered by the Twin City Scenic Co. in 1907. 

The painted composition is extremely deteriorated, with some of the problems stemming from overly thick layers of primer and dry pigment paint.

In my humble opinion, the key to a painted scene’s longevity is making sure that the painting remains flexible. This applies to any historic setting, whether it was painted with thin glazes (as in the English tradition) or opaque washes (as in the European tradition). The primer and the paint layer can never be too thick, even when a translucent area is back painted. I believe that it is a lot easier to accomplish this objective with dry pigments and diluted hide glue than with premixed paints. Dry pigment colors can maintain their vibrancy even after a ridiculous amount of size water is used, yet still sit on top of the previously applied color, maintaining an opacity unparalleled with premixed paints.

So, why is a thick layer on the surface of a drop curtain a problem? A thick primer and/or paint application means that it is drop becomes subject to cracking, flaking and dusting down the road, especially when handled a lot. 

Cracking, flaking and dusting on the Grand Brown Drop Curtain. Photograph from September 14, 2021.

Normally this would not be a big problem for a permanent installation; such is the case with most drop curtains in historic theaters, as the drops stay on a dedicated line set and are never moved. However, the Brown Grand drop curtain has been handled excessively over the past decade. It has been lowered to the stage floor at least three times since its installation in 1979. The drop was lowered to the stage floor when the top sandwich batten was replaced, swapping the original 4-inch wide pine for 6-inch wide oak. It was lowered when the rigging was recently replaced too. I have to wonder if the rigging crew allowed the drop to accordion to the floor, as with some modern drops.  There are tell-tale horizontal creases that suggest that method. It was lowered a final time just prior to my arrival this week. The lowering and raising process takes a toll on a thickly painted compositions, resulting in an abundance of creasing and abrasions. These weaknesses accelerate the aging of the scene if left untreated and eventually becomes irreparable.

Cracks on the surface, revealing both white primer and raw fabric.

I noticed that many areas of paint loss on the Napoleon drop revealed a white prime coat beneath, and the white paint had a slight sheen to it.  This may be that too much size was added to the whiting during initial application – or that another paint product was used. However, there is not a good bond between the primer and paint. In other areas, the prime coat has completely detached from the fabric, revealing raw fibers below. In addition to cracking, flaking, and dusting pigment, there is a substantial amount of surface contaminants.  Removing the top layer of dirt has been tricky, but I went color by color, determining which colors would need extra attention during consolidation.

N95 mask, gloves and Absorene sponges used for cleaning the drop curtain.

After cleaning the drop, I addressed areas with minimal cracking and paint loss. Using a damp brush, loose color can quickly conceal the damage and fill the void.  I say, “easily,” but this is really a tricky process that has taken me quite a few years to fine tune. First of all, not all of colors will work, especially if any pre-mixed paint was added to the dry pigment colors. Secondly, this method only works for small cracks, not large areas of paint loss. It is important to remember that you have one shot to get it right, and a very limited window of time to shift the paint. For this Brown Grand drop curtain, I could successfully shift some yellows, browns, reds, sienna, dark blue and black (yes, there is black on this one, not Van Dyke). The greens are immovable, suggesting that something else is going on and another type of paint may have been applied at the onset.

Shifted the dusting color with a damp brush to fill in the cracks.

This whole approach takes a great amount of skill and years of practice. If you do it wrong or overwork an area, you can actually remove the color and further damage the composition.  Light colors are incredibly tricky, including skies, as a tide line will also appear if your brush is too wet.  However, this process does not introduce any new color to the composition. That being said, there will still have to be a significant amount of in-painting for this project.

My second task yesterday was preparing the top of the drop for a fabric reinforcement. Twelve-inches of the top of the scene had to be removed, as off-gassing from a solvent-based glue used while replacing the original top batten had irreparably damaged the fabric. Using hide glue, two long patches were secured to the backside, four inches below the new top. It will remain under weights for twenty-four hours, and then I will continue with that particular project later today. This was not part of the planned project, so we had to scramble for materials. This included a quick shopping trip in Salina, Kansas.

Adding a four-inch strip across the top of the drop for reinforcement.

By the way, this is a solo project. I am not using any assistants or volunteers for the restoration.  Much has to do with the increased Delta variant in this region. We just lost a close family friend to COVID in the area a few weeks ago.

If it weren’t for the potential health risks for all involved, this would be a fantastic teaching opportunity. Regardless, I am tried to document my process and share daily updates with all stakeholders. This is the best way to communicate without having people stop by and check in on my progress.

Painted detail showing horizontal cracking, caused during handling when the drop was creased.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: Restoring the Brown Grand Theatre Drop Curtain, Day 1.

Copyright © 20201 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett  

In 2002, I was hired by the Brown Grand Theatre to restore three backdrops: a Garden Scene, Woods Scene and Rocky Pass. Each backdrop was a victim of severe water damage.  At the time, the venue still had its original hemp system and paint bridge.  There were no counterweights of any kind; no sandbags to ease a stagehand’s burden, just  three ropes. I remember trying to lift one of the scenes and just dangling, but I was a lot lighter then so it could have been just me. The Brown Grand Theatre project was one of many during the summer of 2002. I was also restoring historic scenery collections at Scottish Rite theaters in St. Paul, Minnesota, and Santa Fe, New Mexico. That summer, I was overwhelmed with projects, and completed the Brown restoration on my way home from Santa Fe. The Brown Grand stage house was absolutely captivating, but I did not have any time to adequately document the paint bridge, rigging, or many other intriguing details.

The Brown Grand Theatre, August 2002. Note the steps leading to the fly rail, stage right.

I returned to the Brown Grand Theatre in 2009. This time, my project was to remove and minimize the staining from tar drips; collateral damage during a roof repair.  It was a quick job, completed after another large restoration project, this one at the Scottish Rite in McAlester, Oklahoma.  Again, my stay at the theater was very brief within no time to document any other stage artifacts, the rigging or paint bridge. I will always regret not stopping to snap a few images.

Last year, I was again contacted by the Brown Grand about some damage to their scenery.  The general manager explained that the front curtain was in desperate need of repair. This really surprised me, as it was a painted replica from 1979.  In the 1970s, the original drop curtain was replaced after it was deemed irreparable. I was extremely familiar with the replica, as well as the original and couldn’t image what caused the rapid deterioration.

The Brown Grand Theatre, July 2021.

The project was granted-based work, so we waited for approval. The timeline remained fluid, as I was unwilling to schedule prior to the vaccine roll out.  We decided tentatively for the fall of 2021 – late September. I really wanted to be fully vaccinated before I started planning restoration projects again and coming in close contact with people that I didn’t know. All this time, I was basing the project timeline on a few current pictures and memory. I added that until I saw it in person it had to remain a “guesstimate,” so in July I swung by the theatre. I was on my way home from Colorado with Michael Powers after meeting the New York Times reporter in Leadville.

I was not prepared for the transformation that had occurred to the Brown Grand stagehouse since my last visit.

The expanded fly floor and the new pin rail at the Brown Grand Theatre, July 2021.
Looking up at the new fly floor at the Brown Grand Theatre in July 2021. Notice the placement of the sandbags in relation to the fly floor; they don’t clear.
The new paint bridge at the Brown Grand Theatre, July 2021.

All of the details that I never had time to photograph were gone. An entirely new rigging system, fly floor and paint bridge had been installed. I was devastated, woefully disappointed with the new version; it also worked less well than the old system. Regardless of my disappointment, I assessed the damaged drop. The majority of the damage was caused by good intentions and amateur repairs. We could not fully lower the drop to the floor, as the paint was quite thick, and we would need multiple hands on deck. However, I got a good sense of the condition. I also suggested that they lower the grand border for my return, so that I could address some of the damage to that too.

At some point an enthusiastic individual came up with a solution to prevent light spill through the thin areas of fabric on the drop curtain. Instead of placing a curtain behind it to block the light spill, dozens of patches were glued to the back. It had been patched while hanging too, with a substantial amount of glue. The actual application of the patches not only cracked the paint, but also left some staining throughout.

Patches added to the back of the drop curtain to prevent light spill. This is not a good solution for this issue.Ever.
All of the patches used an abundance of glue and were placed when hanging. This, in turn, stained come of the painted composition.
Patches on the back of the drop curtain at the Brown Grand Theatre.

As I discussed options, we decided to leave the patches on, since removing them would likely cause more damage than just touching up the front. The “plan” was for me to arrive on a Monday and depart on a Saturday. The project was to conceal areas of paint loss and staining, as well as patch new damage (rips and punctures). There was also another tar drop to deal with – same place. Prior to my arrival, they would lower the drop and then raise it after my departure. Both top and bottom battens would remain on during the repairs. I would arrive on a Sunday, work Monday through Friday, and depart on Saturday morning. On my first day, however, I would verify the work for a week and do a zoom presentation to the Board of Directors. This would be an opportunity to immediately address any surprises.  Before my departure at the end of the week, I would make another presentation to the Board about my completed work. I reserved two additional days for unanticipated work, or damage that occurred when the curtain was initially lowered to the stage.

The drop curtain and grand border on the stage of the Brown Grand Theatre, September 2021.

Upon my arrival yesterday, I was able to fully inspect the entire drop curtain and grand border. I was not prepared for the “improvements” made to the top and bottom sandwich battens since my last visit in 2009. 

I’ll start with Surprise #1 today: The 4” top pine batten of the drop curtain was completely replaced with a 6” oak batten. It wasn’t just replaced; the drop was shortened when they place the new boards below older damage at the top. Therefore, the top 12” were wrapped around the batten, all the way to the backside.  Prior to wrapping the drop around the oak, a piece of muslin was glued to the wood with a solvent-based product and assembled quickly. This glue seeped through the base layer of muslin to the surface. The glue then proceeded to off gas, causing the painted fabric to rapidly deteriorate.  Like tissue paper, any pressure to remove it from the glued areas caused it to disintegrate. I was successful in removing some of the fabric, but not the majority of it. The top 1′-0″ of the drop is not usable and damaged beyond repair. It and will have to be removed, as it cannot support weight or be salvaged. Fortunately, the timing is lucky, as I doubt the drop would have lasted the season.

Oak sandwich batten added to the top of the Brown Grand Theatre drop curtain.
The back of the sandwich batten (6″ oak) that is still firmly attached to the top of the drop.
The top of the drop showing old damage and recent damage from the oak batten.

The bottom batten was only altered on the ends. Again, oak was added to the ends of the original sandwich batten.  In both cases, the sharp edges of the oak damaged the nearby fabric.

Oak pieces added to the original bottom batten.

These issues will be address next weekend. For now, I begin the process of cleaning, repairing and paint touch up.

To be continued…

Travels of a Scenic Artist and Scholar: The Tabor Opera House Makes News Again!

Here is a lovely article written by Carolyn Paletta for the Vail Daily newspaper:

https://www.vaildaily.com/entertainment/hundreds-of-19th-century-painted-scenery-sets-discovered-in-leadvilles-tabor-opera-house/

It is another fantastic article about the Tabor Opera House scenery and the venue’s sole full-time employee, Tammy Taber! Tammy’s institutional memory of the building is astounding, as she began working under the leadership of Evelyn Furman. To me, she is not only the heart and soul of the building, but also a dear friend.

Tammy Taber looking at the scenery. Photograph by Carolyn Paletta for the Vail Daily.