Tales from a Scenic Artist and Scholar. Acquiring the Fort Scott Scottish Rite Scenery Collection for the Minnesota Masonic Heritage Center, part 17.

Rolling the Drops
 
The drops were loosely rolled to transport down the winding staircase to the first floor in Fort Scott. There, they would need to be unrolled and rolled again onto cardboard tubes for shipping. Prior to any final rolling, however, they we carefully matched up all of the scenes. Entire scenes were not lowered simultaneously; we slowly worked from upstage to downstage in succession for safety reasons.
 
A year earlier, I had completed this same task with Paul Sannerud and was absolutely dreading it. For the Winona scenery, we carefully flattened each scene on the floor and rolled each drop onto 6” tubes of PVC. This was an option due to the shorter length of twenty feet – the height of each scene. For Fort Scott we needed longer tubes -twenty-five feet, hence the cardboard tubes from North Carolina.
(2014 in Winona, MN)
 
I had found a company that manufactured shipping tubes to order. Unfortunately, due to the initial contractual delays, the tubes were very late in arriving – so we had to alter my anticipated process. Instead of “lower, take downstairs, roll and stack” it became “lower, take downstairs, place somewhere, and wait to roll.” This meant that I had to divide each scene on the first floor and remember where all of the scenes were once we started rolling – as there would be a specific placement in order to unload into the collection into the storage unit.
 
The difficulty of this task is always trying to roll a piece of fabric that is not flat. When a drop hangs for decades, the shape becomes altered overtime and it is no longer a perfect rectangle. People fail to understand that the fabric continues to stretch from a variety of factors. Primarily, uneven pick points allow the weight of the batten at the bottom of the drop to reshape the rectangle into a trapezoid – often undetectable from the auditorium. Then there is the hourglass shape with curling edges on each side of the drop – very identifiable from the audience.
 
Furthermore, the air currents bellow out the center. Think of it as the center of the drop moving forward and backward, gradually stretching the fabric, resulting in a central sagging. These alterations are almost imperceivable, until you lay the fabric on the floor. Some areas will form bubbles, like when you played in gym class “parachute.” Remember how all of the edges could be brought to the floor and the center puffed up? A similar thing happens to the drop when all of the fabric settles to the ground, there are still irregularities in the center.
 
Another way to understand the difficulty of this task is to think of rolling linoleum on a tube. The rigidity allows it to roll perfectly. This is not what happens with old fabric and wrinkles appear. When wrinkles appear during rolling, the fabric subsequently creases and the paint it cracks off, thus forming an irreparable line.
 
Even after restoration, wrinkles often occur during rolling. That is the reason why I am so adamant about only restoring scenery on site. You might have a restored a drop and it looks perfect on the floor, but the rolling and transport will damage all of your work during transport. Therefore, you would need to do additional work once it arrived at the space; work that would be extra and drive up the overall expense. This was another point of contention with the CEO. He refused to believe that the drops couldn’t be restored off site and transported without harm.
 
There was not a single space on the first floor where were could fully layout the drop which added an additional layer of complexity to the process. Prior to rolling, we had to accordion pleat about two-thirds of the scene.
I had always rolled up the drops on the floor, but Brandon invented a rolling machine to save our backs and knees! He called his invention the “rigger – mo’ – roll!”
 
He picked up saw horses and casters from Kansas City to create a fabric roller. It took a while to assemble, but I was amazed. Not perfect, but the weight of the fabric would keep the rolls taut and minimize the wrinkles. In the end, each drop would weigh 100 pounds. and take four men to safely transport.
 
To be continued…

Rolling and Transporting Painted Scenery

“Take great care that no wrinkles or creases arise in the cloth while it is being rolled up, for it would be impossible to get rid of them when once they have been allowed to form. They generally originate from the cloth having been lifted during the rolling, instead of being left to bear the weight of the roller evenly throughout its length. If there is a bight in the cloth, roll up till you come to the fold in the bight, and then, after taking the nails out of the fold, strain the part of the canvas that has been folded. Next unroll the canvas till you come to the bottom of the cloth, and let the roller rest on the sill of the frame. Now tighten the canvas as much as you can, keeping it square, and fasten the roller to the sill with some long nails. When you have tacked up the sides, straining out the while from centre, fill up in the bight the part of the sky that is wanting; and, all being dry, roll up again, as before, till you come to the top nails, which you can now tae out, thus removing the picture entirely from the frame.”
 
These instructions were given by F. Lloyds in 1875 for his publication “Practical Guide to Scene Painting and Painting in Distemper.” Although his instructions are for taking a newly painted drop off of a frame and onto a roller, his recommendations are applicable to the transportation and storage of any painted scene.
 
At this point in time, I have supervised the rolling and storage of approximately 200 historic drops. That being said, time and environmental conditions also add a layer of difficulty to the process as you are not rolling a flat piece of fabric. Over time the fabric has stretched and buckled in the center, almost creating an hour-glass shape. I have tried rolling drops both on the ground and standing up. While standing, we used a brilliant machine called the “rigger-mo-roll” designed by Brandon Fischer.
 
Both have their merits, but the “rigger-mo-roll” allows the weight of the fabric to maintain a constant (and fairly even stress) against the roll. Please understand that wrinkles created during the rolling of a drop cannot be removed. I have seen this in already installed roll drops and fly drops. The paint cracks and their is a constant visual reminder. When I have been rolling drops, there are a series of factor that are taken into consideration. Usually the question is, “What will be the easiest repair?” Repainting a crease, or patching torn fabric.? In some cases, I even split the fabric at the bottom of the drop, knowing that a patch along a seam would be less of a problem than painting a wrinkle across the sky. Below are some images of Brandon’s invention as we rolled up drop’s last year. The Fort Scott Crew provided by BellaTex, LLC consisted of Brandon, Mark Wilson, Austin Gray and Todd Whatley