Rolling and Transporting Painted Scenery

“Take great care that no wrinkles or creases arise in the cloth while it is being rolled up, for it would be impossible to get rid of them when once they have been allowed to form. They generally originate from the cloth having been lifted during the rolling, instead of being left to bear the weight of the roller evenly throughout its length. If there is a bight in the cloth, roll up till you come to the fold in the bight, and then, after taking the nails out of the fold, strain the part of the canvas that has been folded. Next unroll the canvas till you come to the bottom of the cloth, and let the roller rest on the sill of the frame. Now tighten the canvas as much as you can, keeping it square, and fasten the roller to the sill with some long nails. When you have tacked up the sides, straining out the while from centre, fill up in the bight the part of the sky that is wanting; and, all being dry, roll up again, as before, till you come to the top nails, which you can now tae out, thus removing the picture entirely from the frame.”
 
These instructions were given by F. Lloyds in 1875 for his publication “Practical Guide to Scene Painting and Painting in Distemper.” Although his instructions are for taking a newly painted drop off of a frame and onto a roller, his recommendations are applicable to the transportation and storage of any painted scene.
 
At this point in time, I have supervised the rolling and storage of approximately 200 historic drops. That being said, time and environmental conditions also add a layer of difficulty to the process as you are not rolling a flat piece of fabric. Over time the fabric has stretched and buckled in the center, almost creating an hour-glass shape. I have tried rolling drops both on the ground and standing up. While standing, we used a brilliant machine called the “rigger-mo-roll” designed by Brandon Fischer.
 
Both have their merits, but the “rigger-mo-roll” allows the weight of the fabric to maintain a constant (and fairly even stress) against the roll. Please understand that wrinkles created during the rolling of a drop cannot be removed. I have seen this in already installed roll drops and fly drops. The paint cracks and their is a constant visual reminder. When I have been rolling drops, there are a series of factor that are taken into consideration. Usually the question is, “What will be the easiest repair?” Repainting a crease, or patching torn fabric.? In some cases, I even split the fabric at the bottom of the drop, knowing that a patch along a seam would be less of a problem than painting a wrinkle across the sky. Below are some images of Brandon’s invention as we rolled up drop’s last year. The Fort Scott Crew provided by BellaTex, LLC consisted of Brandon, Mark Wilson, Austin Gray and Todd Whatley

Painting Arms and Hands

“For these, the variety of tints is less, though their volume is greater than in the palette of the face. The management is much the same; it demands only greater boldness in the execution and, in general, a somewhat heavier impaste of color, but not to excess. The local color of the arms and hands as well as the breast should be in harmony with that of the head, so that a brunette should not have those of a blond, nor a blond those of a brunette.”
From Frank Atkinson “Scene Painting and Bulletin Art” (1916, page 58)
 
For a little humor this morning: Here are some examples that stress the importance of figure drawing or the scenic artist. Pain cannot fix poor drawing or anatomy that is not in scale with the rest of the figure. One more example of why I say, “Just because it’s old, doesn’t mean it’s perfect.”
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Values

“Of supreme importance in painting is the true understanding of values.  Color is at all times. comparative, and values cannot be determined in any way by comparison.

If we takes white and add a pinch , we produce gray, which compared with the white is a value.  Add to this value a pinch of black as before, which will produce a trifle lower than tint, and we have what is termed a second value.  This value, with a pinch of black added, will produce a trifle deeper gray; and we can proceed this until we reach deep, or low, gray, and lastly black itself.  Now if we lay the values thus proceeding in small planes close to each other, with their edges touching, we can lightly soften these edges with a dry badger blender without interfering with the individual purity of each value and thus produce an agreeable gradation of values ranging from black to light.

With these values set upon the palette, we could render a drawing in black and white which would be suitable for reproduction in a magazine or book illustration and whose proper name would be monotone.”

Excerpt from Frank Atkinson’s “Scene Painting and Bulletin Art” (1916, page 11).

Below are two value scales and an image from the Scenery Collection database (https://umedia.lib.umn.edu/scenicsearch). The online database has both pencil sketches and monochromatic paintings.
 
From a freelance standpoint, I frequently use value to show clients a composition with atmosphere while not distracting them with color. Often clients will react to color before the actual subject matter and composition. In my opinion, it is also essential in the artistic process to truly prepare the painter for the final color painting.

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Painting Convertible Scenery – Spattering Scenery

Excerpt from “Scenery, a Manual of Scene Design” by Harold Helvenston (1931, page 58)

“In painting flats or units that are to be used in different scenes, under different colored lights, it is the common custom to paint a ground tone of neutral or almost neutral gray, either warm or cold in hue, and upon this spatter three or four or any number of different colors according to a definitely preconceived color scheme.  The spattering colors may be primary colors of light or pigment, secondary colors of either, or any other chromatic system pleasing or displeasing to the artist.  The value of these colors should be the same if there is not to be a predominance of any one color.  This however, is arbitrary.  

This technique results in a very flexible surface for lighting, and when properly combined with different hues and intensities of light it is capable of creating many imaginative and pleasing effects.  If any one light hue is used alone on scenery it has a tendency to bring out that particular hue in the setting.  If two colored lights are combined, the result will reflect its corresponding combination in pigment.  Thus a red light upon a scene that has been spattered with red will produce a red glow to the audience; a combination of red and blue will bring out the red and blue qualities of the setting or their chromatic result, which is magenta.”

Below are two scenes from the Scenery Collection Database at the University of Minnesota. Here is the link to go exploring.  I search “Interiors.”

https://umedia.lib.umn.edu/scenicsearch

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And here is an example of spatter on full-scale scenery for the Quincy, Illinois Scottish Rite Theatre (Secret Vault scene).

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Sizing with Whiting in the 1930s

The following excerpt is from “Scenery, a Manual of Scene Design” by Harold Helvenston (1931, page 55)

“Sizing is made by putting into a large bucket about three-quarters of a bucket of dry whiting, allowing water to flow easily into the bucket while a stirring rod or stick is used vigorously to dissolve the lumps and make an evenly consistent paste.  Three or four small cups of glue are then added to this mixture for binding purposes and enough water is added to insure the proper consistency for the easy use of the brush,  the amount of glue is variable and is usually determined by each individual painter in the preparation of sizing…if there is too little glue the paint will crack and if there is too much the sizing will stretch the canvas or cloth too tightly.  The whiting serves to fill the pores of the fabric and the glue acts as a binder to stretch it tightly on the frame.”

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Netting – a modern method

My technique for netting is Flexbond glue in dye bottles. In many cases where the painted surface is NOT flat, 1/4″ detailing tape (for cars) works great! The important aspect of this entire process is to hand check EVERY single knot prior to cutting an placing in the drop opening. Contemporary looms allow a small percentage of the netting knots to “slip,” allowing the entire piece to shift the overall distribution of weight once it is hanging. This is fine for some theatrical applications, but not for shows with long runs.
 
I have yet to find any theatrical supplier that can guarantee netting without slipping knots. Therefore, hand check and individually glue each knot that slips. This is an incredibly time-consuming process, but having to re-net a piece takes even longer!

 

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Original glue dots, I use much small amounts of glue as there is a tendency for the painted surface to “pucker” around the glue dots.

Netting

From Bradford Ashworth’s “Notes on Scene Painting” (1952, page 3)

“Netting comes in two varieties for use as scenery:

(a). the ordinary meshed bar of mosquito netting which is obtainable in many colors.

(b). the natural-color drop and border foliage netting which has a mesh of about one-inch square.”

I have primarily encountered one-inch square netting in Masonic scenery. Prior to the 1920s, each individual knotted intersection was carefully dabbed with glue.  After the 1920s, entire edges are smeared with a  4″ to 6″ wide swath of glue. Attached are pictures form various scenery collections in the Southern Jurisdiction of the Scottish Rite.  In many cases, you can see the original guidelines, tack marks, and handprints.

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Happy Thanksgiving!

As it is the Thanksgiving holiday, I have decided to share some scenery from the Blue Lodge design depicting a ship. Typically, the Masonic rocky shore scene includes either a painted ship or a cut-out ship that hooks onto the backdrop. In one Valley, they replaced the original ship with an obvious Thanksgiving decoration (the Mayflower). It is one of those “in-house” alterations that just makes me smile.

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and the alternate for the same Scottish Rite Valley…

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I have also included a few other original examples for context.

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Linen Scrim

“Linen Scrim is still a finer and closer weave than bobbinet and is used mainly for effects such as an apparition or a vision scene, i.e., a subject is painted on the front of the scrim. When the light is removed from the front and brought up to reveal an object behind the scrim, the painting on the front disappears. Since scrim is only seventy-two inches wide, there are seams when it is used to form drops. These seams must be sewn as finely as possible so they will not show.”

Bradford Ashworth’s “Notes on Scene Painting” (1952, page 3)

The images below are from the Pasadena, California, Scottish Rite Theatre for the 15th degree Treasure Chamber scene.

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Gauzes

“Hanson Gauze is named for its purveyor, Joe Hanson, 423 West 43rd Street, New York City. It is a heavy durable gauze with small, square mesh. It has a ribbed side and a smooth side. It is manufactured only in a 30′ width and comes unfireproofed. The ribbed side, with the rib running horizontally, is considered the best side for painting as it catches the paint when either opaque color and dye is applied.
Bobbinet is a finer and more fragile gauze. Because of the nature of the weave of the mesh the end of a bobbinet drop may stretch and sag under the pull of tension of the battens. therefore it should be made several feet longer than necessary. This gauze is fine for a “fogging” effect. It takes dye or opaque color readily. It comes unfireproofed and is thirty feet wide. Other fabrics may be glued or sewn to the bobbinet. It can be used for borders, drops and even certain framed scenery.
 
 
“Gauzes (Hansen, Bobbinet, Scrim) are usually tacked down with a ‘strengthened’ tack. This is accomplished by driving the tack through a small square of cardboard. This prevents the tearing of the gauze when it shrinks.”
 
Excerpt from Bradford Ashworth’s “Notes on Scene Painting” (1952, pages 2, 3, and 10)
 
Below depicts the use of bobbinet for the Sanctum Sanctorum gates in King Solomon’s Temple (4th degree of the Scottish Rite drop). These images are from from Quincy, Illinois.
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