Copyright © 2020 by Wendy Waszut-Barrett
From September 21 to 27, 2020, I led a group of volunteers to document scenery in the attic of the Tabor Opera House, Leadville, Colorado. Of the many wings, shutters and set pieces uncovered, one particular border curtain caught my eye. On the back of the piece was a mill stamp that read, “Stark Mills Improved Standard Drillings A.” To fully appreciate this artifact, one must understand the significance of Stark Mills and use of drillings for nineteenth-century scenery.
Stark Mills was located in Manchester, New Hampshire, just thirty-six miles away from Boott Mills in Lowell, Massachusetts. Both mills were situated along the Merrimack River, supported by power canals. Both mills produced textiles used by scenic artists for scenery at the Tabor Opera House.
Stark Mills produced some of the heaviest cotton fabrics shipped from mills in Manchester, New Hampshire, during the nineteenth century. Their products included sheetings, drillings, denim, duck and much more, each shipped to thousands of distant dry goods stores. Stark Mills products were even sold in Hawaii by 1870. Newspaper advertisements for Honolulu listed bales of Stark Mills A Sheeting, B Sheeting and A Drilling for sale.
When the Tabor Opera house opened in 1879, Stark Mills textiles were readily available from many western merchants. Drillings were also a familiar product known to many theatre artists and worked well for painted scenes. Keep in mind that before the railroad arrived in Leadville, products were shipped by stage over the mountains, including a variety of necessary textiles for everyday life. Stark Mills Improved Standard Drillings were a necessary fabric for the mining community, primarily used in dress and vest linings. The shipping of the product by stage to Leadville signaled a continued commercial relationship with east coast industry. The Tabor Opera House opened its doors before the railroad arrived in town.
Several scenic pieces at the Tabor Opera House were produced using Stark Mills, listing the product as grade “A” drillings. A “40” on the stamp indicated the number of yards in a bolt. The popular plain weave cotton fabric was a sturdy, inexpensive, and paintable fabric. In 1890, “best drillings” were advertised at a price of eight cents per yard in Leadville, today’s equivalent of $2.29/yard. (Herald Democrat, 22 Jan 1890). Scenic artists working on site in remote western towns, such as Leadville, relied on local materials. Unlike their metropolitan counterparts, scenic artists working in Leadville did not have the luxury of access to an array of variety of goods, wit varying quality and price points.
Drillings are fabric with a twill weave, characterized by diagonal lines made from the filling threads. Also referred to as “drill,” this fabric was marketed as a stout twilled fabric, and traditionally used in summer-weight clothing, such as trousers. Drill was especially popular for uniforms and other military goods during the nineteenth century, as well as being used as lining for dresses and vest. Although the date of manufacture for the border curtain fabric remains unknown, the fabric was likely produced between 1879 and 1887.
Stark Mills was a massive complex in Manchester, New Hampshire. By 1881, Stark Mills manufactured 17,000,000 yards of cotton goods that were shipped across the country (Vermont Farmer, 21 Oct 1881, page 2). In 1882 Stark Mills produced 8,567,000 pounds of product; the goods including sheetings, drillings, duck and bags (The Boston Globe, 18 Oct 1881, page 6). This was an increase over the previous year by 230,000 pounds, indicating an increased supply to meet increased demand.
Stark Manufacturing Co. was an affiliate of the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company. In 1831 the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. was incorporated along the banks of the Merrimack River after engineers determined that the east bank of the Merrimack River was deemed best for the establishment of mills and tiered canals. In short, the company planned an extensive mill town, purchasing much of the land on the east bank of the Merrimack in 1835. Early in 1838, several individual with interests in the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. submitted a petition to the legislature for a charter of incorporation under the name of the Stark Manufacturing Company. The name Stark was selected in honor of John Stark. Stark was a Maj. Gen. in the Continental Army during the American Revolution, widely known as the “Hero of Bennington” for his exemplary service at the Battle of Bennington in 1777. Immediately upon the organization, the Stark Manufacturing Company entered into an agreement with the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. and began building the first Stark Mill.
The Stark Manufacturing Company purchased fourteen acres of land from the Amoskeag Manufacturing Company, and secured an agreement for water usage from the Amoskeag Canal. Stark Mill opened in 1839, with the new building measuring 50’-0 wide by 150’-0” long. Six tenement buildings provided nearby lodging for mill workers. Raw cotton entered the building by a three-story picker house at the south end of the building. Picker machines both cleaned and processed the cotton fibers for further processing prior to using in looms.
Soon a second mill was erected nearby the original structure, exactly the same size as the first. By 1844, a third mill was added, placed between the two buildings. The three mills formed a large complex that became known as Stark Mill No. 1. This six-story structure was 526 feet long and contained 20,000 spindles and 660 looms. In 1844, the Stark Manufacturing Co. processed three million pounds of raw cotton and employed 540 people. Stark Mill No. 2 was built in 1846. This factory had 19,564 spindles with 560 looms.
In 1850 fire broke out in Stark No. 1, the refitting of the mill included Cyrus Baldwin’s invention to manufacture seamless bags. Of the 660 new looms, 260 were now dedicated to the production of bags; the 260 Baldwin produced 2,000,000 bags each year. The seamless grain bags were identifiable by the word “Stark” over a semi-circular arch, with the letter A below. This was an extremely popular product, quickly imitated by competitors. In 1871, a Philadelphia firm was accused of making and selling similar goods with the word “Star” over a semi-circular arch and the letter A below. The court eventually granted an injunction to restrain the use of the imitative mark (Buffalo Weekly Courier, 3 May 1871, page 6).
By 1875, the number of mills associated with the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. had increased to nine. The mills were outfitted with 125,000 spindles and 3,500 looms. 2700 individuals were employed, with 1,800 of that number women. The mills were powered by 14 water wheels, transforming 225,000 pounds of cotton into 600,000 yards of textiles each week. From 1874 to 1875 Stark Mills manufactured 12,579,734 yards of cotton and linen goods, as well as 1,738,547 lbs. of bags (“Boston Daily Globe,” 8 Oct. 1875, page 2). In 1875 the Stark Mills payroll was a little over $20,000 a week, or about $1,250,000 a year.). By this time, half of all goods manufactured by the mills were colored goods, consisting of tickings, denims, fancy shirtings, sheetings, and bags. The “white” goods remained drillings, flannels, sheetings and bags.
From 1879-1890 the Tabor Opera House purchased new scenery at least three times: 1879, 1888 and 1890. New scenery was added to existing collections, as well as refurbishing and repainting scenes. The fabric for many of these scenes are stamped with either Stark Mills of Boot Mills.
Over time, some of the Tabor Opera House border curtains were repainted to accompany new productions, yet the mill stamps remained visible. As subsequent collections of scenery were purchased and painted for the Tabor Opera House stage, standard sheetings were selected in lieu of older drillings. This preference was also reflected in products marketed by scenic studios. By the late 1880s, the preferred fabric for American scenic artists became cotton sheeting. The smooth finish of the fabric especially helped with scenic illusions, such as transparencies. At this time thicker products, such as Russian linen, were reserved for painted front curtains (drop-curtains), grand teasers and grand tormentors.
To be continued…
